If an evergreen tree’s crowning achievement is to become a Christmas tree, then surely an orange’s would be its transformation into an elegant orangette. The sweet gloss of an orangette balanced by a tangy citrus burst is delectable. These can be served as is, or used in cookies, cakes or chocolate desserts. Try making them with grapefruit as well!

Growing up in our small northern town at the base of the Lacloche Foothills, getting a Christmas tree for our family meant heading out into the bush. It also meant being ready to follow the lead of a father who was notoriously particular about the selection of a tree. I say this with not a trace of bitterness: I loved this search out in the clean, cold forest air dwarfed by towering pines and elegant maples, birches and poplar in all their skeletal winter glory. Eventually a